THE WILD ONION JACKET Frequently Asked Questions:

1. What is a Master Pattern?

The Wild Onion Jacket Master Pattern forms the base for all the Wild Onion Jacket Pattern creations! You will need the Master Pattern tissue pattern and instructions in order to create all your jackets, whether you create your own jacket style, or you buy a Pattern Guide to use as design ideas.

2. What is a Pattern Guide?

Wild Onion Jacket Pattern Guides offer instructions which are supplemental to the instructions found in the Wild Onion Jacket Master Pattern. Pattern Guides show you how to create a specific jacket style. Like the Master Pattern, these feature easy to follow instructions with modern styling and uncomplicated techniques. To create a Wild Onion Jacket, you will need the Master Pattern as well as your chosen Pattern Guide. The Pattern Guides are offered at a very affordable price.

3. How do I know what size to use?

This is an easy fitting, comfortable jacket. Here are the jacket measurements. Please note that they are NOT your body measurements!


To put this in popular dress sizes: a size 4-6 would wear an XS Wild Onion Jacket. A size 6-8 would wear a size S. A size 10-12 would wear a M, a size 14-16 would wear a L. A size 16-18 would wear an XL, and size 18-22 would wear an XXL. If you are in doubt, make your jacket one size bigger. Once it's quilted but before you sew the seams, drape the jacket over you and pin the seams. This jacket pattern is very easy to alter; if your jacket is too big, just take a bigger seam. Fitting should be as easy as cutting off the excess seam!

4. What are the yardage requirements so that I can buy my fabric while I wait for the pattern to be delivered?

For a wholecloth jacket, all sizes use 4 yards of 44" wide fabric for the jacket, and 4 yards of 44" wide fabric for the lining. For a pieced/collaged jacket, assorted fabrics to cover the pattern area are needed plus 4 yards of 44" wide muslin for foundation piecing. For a pieced jacket, all sizes use approximately 13-14 fat quarters, depending upon the pieced pattern. The actual pattern is approximately 63" long x 67" wide, all sizes. The shorter version is approximately 53" long. In addition, you will need 1/2 yard of 44" wide fabric for binding. Batting size is approximately 72" x 72" , longer for longarm quilting. Thread as desired for piecing, quilting, and attaching binding. Note that there will be enough fabric leftover from the jacket or lining for binding, or scrap quilts!

5. What batting do you suggest?

I have tried lots of different batting in my jackets, and while I have some personal favorites, the unique qualities of different batting are appropriate for different jackets.

If you like your jacket to stay crinkle-free, choose a polyester batt. I have used Polydown for a touch of loft to highlight my quilting, and I've used Thermore to keep the jacket sleek. Both of these batts are made by Hobbs. I also like AirLite's polyester batting. I have used Soft N Brite by the Warm Co., and I've used Dream's needlepunched polyester batt. While I like them and use them in quilts, I found them too stiff in my jackets. I've used Hobb's wool, too, for a touch of loft and warmth.

When I want a cuddly, quilt-like feeling for my jacket, I reach for Warm and Natural (or Warm and White), or Hobb's Heirloom 100% cotton batting. This gives me a weightier feeling jacket, with some nice crinkling due to the cotton batt. Hobbs 80/20 or Dream 70/30 (cotton to polyester ratio) is also a nice, light batt choice, with some crinkling effect.

I have used flannel inside in lieu of batting, and I've even foregone batting altogether. Both methods were successful. Polar fleece is warm and lightweight; I’ve made a jacket with two layers of polar fleece. I’ve also had success with polar fleece as a batting, and as a combination batting and lining fabric.

I haven't tried an alpaca batt, but it's on my to-do list. I'll bet it's wonderful, especially for a colder climate. I also haven't tried silk, but it's also at the top of my list.

The bottom line is, think about what batting you like in your quilts. How will you wear the jacket-- indoors or out, in cold weather or warm? Unless the poof jacket makes a fashion return (let's cross our fingers and hope not!) steer clear of puffy, super lofty polyester batting. Otherwise, any batting will work, and because of the flattering cut of the Wild Onion Jacket pattern, adding batting will not pad your figure appreciably!

6. Can I change the silhouette of the jacket? How?

You can easily change the look of the jacket. On the pattern, there is a dashed line indicating "cut here for a shorter jacket". You may use this line to shorten your jacket length, or shorten the hem further by simply cutting more off from the jacket bottom. Be sure to cut equal amounts from the two fronts and from the back. You can make the sleeve tighter by simply sewing a bigger seam allowance (make sure to trim off the excess seam so that your binding fits). You might also choose to nip in the jacket waist by simply curving your side seam appropriately. Easy!

7. I ran short of fabric!

Position your chosen fabric so that it covers the majority of the jacket pattern, then find some interesting fabric to add onto the hem edges, remembering to cover the jacket front and back and sleeve hem edges, if necessary. If you are sewing with a domestic (regular) sewing machine, you will add the new fabric onto the original fabric using regular sewing methods. If you are sewing with a mid- or longarm quilting machine, you can float your original jacket fabric and add the new fabric to the bottom edges using raw edge applique methods, or by placing your new fabric right sides together with the original fabric, matching the cut edge. Using your favorite straight ruler, sew along the edge, 1/4" in. Fold the new fabric over and quilt as desired.

8. Can I use directional fabric? How?

While it is a bit trickier to use a directional fabric, it can be done. First, fold your pattern in half. Mark this top shoulder line and transfer the line onto your marked muslin sewing foundation or batting.

Next, fold your pattern so that the entire sleeve folds back onto the body of the pattern, creating a shoulder seam as if it were a drop shoulder sleeve. Transfer this sleeve line onto your marked musling sewing foundation or batting.

Now you will position your directional fabric onto the back portion of the marked foundation. Cut the fabric 1/2" above the marked top shoulder line, and pin the fabric in place.

Reposition the remaining fabric so that the directional pattern lines up correctly onto each jacket front of the marked foundation. Cut the necessary amount of fabric to cover each jacket front, again cutting 1/2" above the marked top shoulder line.

To sew the front fabric to the back fabric, flip fabric right sides together, matching cut edges. Sew 1/2" seam, open fabric out and smooth over marked pattern foundation.

Alternatively, you can turn under the front fabric 1/2" seam, finger press, and topstitch it down to the back fabric. You will repeat your chosen method for each sleeve, using the marked sleeve line as your guide.

Once you have your directional fabric sewn at the shoulders and sleeves, you are ready to continue creating your Wild Onion Jacket, following the pattern directions.